What makes a cult classic? There’s no set formula, but if it’s an elusive quality and a reputation among tastemakers, Escentric Molecules fits the bill.
Developed in a London garage by disruptor and perfumer Geza Schoen, it burst on to the scene 20 years ago as an antidote to the traditional fragrance houses’ approach to scent. “I wanted to create something unconventional, not too perfumistic. Something for my friends who said they didn’t like fragrance,” Schoen says.
Where traditional noses blend natural notes, Schoen put a lab-developed molecule Iso E Super at the heart of his unisex cologne.
Escentric Molecules
Thanks to ‘pheromone activating properties’, Iso E Super is described as an ‘aroma-chemical’ that reacts with the wearer’s own scent. The results are subtle, skin-like and sophisticated. Like the crisp white shirt of fragrance, it works on everyone and can take you anywhere.
Cult perfumes from Escentric Molecules
Two futuristic variants dropped in 2006: Escentric 01 (which blends 18 complementary notes to enhance its sensuality) and Molecule 01 (pure, bottled, ISO E Super).
The launch immediately had beauty editors’ seal of approval. “I was 23 and an assistant on the beauty desk at Vogue when I first sniffed a bottle of Molecule 01 that had been sent to my editor. It was maybe three years after its launch, and Madonna, Elton John and Naomi Campbell were already said to be firm devotees,” says Rose Beer, The Standard’s beauty director.
“Despite my usual leaning towards bolder perfumes, I was immediately hooked on its subtle, warm woodiness – its hide-and-seek nature and your-skin-but-better muskiness,” Rose adds. “To me, Molecule 01 is more of a feeling than a fragrance, and many years and bottles later, it’s still on my bathroom shelf.”
Where beauty editors go, waiting lists follow, including reportedly the longest Harvey Nichols had seen to date – but this was far from a passing trend. Two decades on, both fragrances feel as modern as they did upon their release. Wearers tend to be devoted fans, and because of the way the molecule works it often feels the closest thing to a true signature scent.
Shop Escentric Molecules fragrances
Introducing larger bottles of classic perfumes
The Standard’s head of commercial content Tory Frost, has worn Molecule 01 for a decade. She says: “I’d always aim to be someone who smells great, rather than someone who smells ‘of perfume’. And that’s what Molecule 01 delivers. I remember a phase when everyone whose scent I admired was wearing this, but crucially they all smelled different, and I knew I wanted in.”
Tory adds: “To me, it’s timeless style in a bottle. I’ve worn it to job interviews, dates, summer holidays and on Christmas Day. Without fail, someone will comment on it.”
If spritzing a standard perfume is like putting on a costume, an Escentric Molecules fragrance is like taking one off to feel more like yourself. To pin down its aroma, think woody, velvety and cocooning. And since people report being chased down the street to be asked what they’re wearing, news of two 200ml larger bottles, released to celebrate 20 years since the launch, will be welcomed by devotees.
The iconic design remains the same, save for a heavier cap that feels luxe and architectural, making it the perfect gift whether you’re treating a long-time fan or want to give the magic of a scent that feels truly individual.
Discover the full Escentric Molecules range here and follow @escentric_molecules on Instagram
