Sunday, November 30, 2025

David Ellis reviews Crisp at the Marlborough: Only you know if pizza is worth a five-hour wait

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The Vecna is built cheese-first, marinara sauce added later, pepperoni slices glistening. Hot honey lifts it, the sweet spice adding to the gentle heat of the sausage. For me, who likes Neapolitan pizza, this was too crunchy, but I can’t fault the execution; it delivers exactly what’s promised. Pizza preferences are personal. I preferred the bar pies — bigger, flatter, less brittle. In this guise we had the Tie-Dye, a margherita made with tequila sauce and topped with a spiral of pesto, looking like a trippy Scooby Doo sequence. With floppier dough, and a little smokiness in the sauce, this was the hit. We ordered a pizza each, an error: one between two would be enough. Better if we’d avoided the baked pepperoni “crisps”, too, which were nothing of the sort, just limp slices. We ordered marinara sauce for dipping, but quickly failed to see the point. There’s fine-tuning to figure out.



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