In March 2024, Vogue heralded the return of the skinny jean — but this season saw designers not only double down on the trend, but go one step further: tight leather drainpipes dominated the catwalks. Most notably, it was led by Burberry, where a design shift from Daniel Lee saw the British luxury powerhouse move away from velvet suits and chintzy prints seen last February and towards a young, festival-going feeling: all bright yellow and pink leather suits, boho culottes and snake-print sandals. But it was Lux Gillespie, the model son of Bobby Gillespie and stylist Katy England, who best embodied its new look: narrow, soil-brown leather slacks worn low with a lilac satin bomber, shirt and skinny tie — indie sleaze style. It was the same story at rising designer Aaron Esh, who works closely with England on his collections and who has been a loud voice in the return of tight trews and tall heels. Opening Esh’s show, Lux had the same attitude, hands in the pockets of his leather jacket, worn over a black button-down shirt and slick charcoal trousers. Scowl optional.
