Forget almost everything you believe about treating acne. Unlearn the routine of yore, where pimples were manhandled, stripped back with grainy scrubs and astringents, starved of all moisture, then nuked with alcohol or a peroxide paste that caused instant smarting and wincing.
Experts are now tackling acne with kid gloves. According to dermatologist Justine Hextall: “We are much more aware of the subtle differences in a blemish-prone skin. Not every presentation is an oily teenager with bulletproof skin that can tolerate alcohol-based washes alongside benzoyl peroxide, exfoliating acids and scrubs. For many, this skincare approach is the opposite of what is needed, and will be deleterious to skin.”
While there is still an important place for actives like retinoids and salicylic and azelaic acids, the modern approach is about protecting the delicate skin barrier with gentle, kind ingredients like panthenol, ceramides and hyaluronic acid. These cushion the blow of the hard stuff, meaning people are less likely to suffer such irritation and discomfort that they quit what ultimately works. “In my experience, this approach is key,” says Hextall. A European consensus recommendation published in May this year agrees with her.
“I find most acne sufferers are afraid of moisturisers,” Hextall says, “but the right ones can be very helpful. Gentle, hydrating skincare is especially important in adult acne, when skin is often dry and sensitive, and topical prescriptions are particularly difficult to tolerate.”
She and colleagues have found that barrier dysfunction caused by harsh acne skincare frequently crosses over with cases of rosacea and perioral dermatitis. A gentler approach can discourage their onset or flare-up.
Like many dermatologists, Hextall recommends hydrating cleansers by Cetaphil (£11.50) and CeraVe (£12.50), followed by La Roche Posay’s Cicaplast B5 serum (£40) to replenish depleted hydration levels and calm the skin. Acne sufferers may also like Tower 28’s almost effortless SOS spray (£28), which contains hypochlorous acid for antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits. It can be tossed into a school backpack and topped up regularly.
Topicals Sealed Active Primer (£30) is not so much a treatment as a helpful disguise, gently filling dips and scars to give uneven, acne-beaten skins a smoother appearance and a barrier between inflammation and makeup.
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Sam Farmer’s IntensivePlus spot gel (£20) coddles its salicylic and lactic acids in softening glycerine, and can be popped on zits between washes.
