
Vada — dumplings that look like deep-fried doughnuts, and don’t taste dissimilar — came the colour of scorched soil, with three dips to scoop them in (coconut, tomato and curry, and green chilli). A choose-your-own-adventure story, only with spice. Chilli prawn toast was formed in neat, crustless squares, made with what might affectionately be called “shit white bread”, the cheap kind from a supermarket that cannot be surpassed in certain scenarios (see also: bacon sandwiches).

