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Essential peptide cheat sheet: the best products to use and when

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STYLE

Ask any skincare expert and they will be quick to tell you that peptides are one of the most intelligent ingredients that you can put onto your face. If you’re not doing so yet, here’s why you might want to incorporate them into your regime…

What – in simple terms – are peptides?

The building blocks of our skin, peptides are short chains of amino acids which, when topically applied, act as messengers, triggering the skin to perform specific functions such as building collagen and elastin, soothing irritation or boosting hydration, as well as encouraging skin to look and act younger.

The wide variety of peptides out there means that their benefits tend to an array of our most common skin needs, from smoothing and firming, to healing, calming and hydrating. “Peptides tend to be more sensitive skin-friendly than acids or retinol,” says Jen Shane, Co-Founder of hot new beauty import INNBEAUTY Project. “As such they are a great way to see results without irritating or damaging the skin barrier.”

Are there any downsides to using peptides?

In short, no — although unlike an exfoliating acid, for example, which can offer an immediate fix, peptides must be used consistently to deliver the best results. “I think of peptides as personal trainers for the skin cells,” explains Nicolas Travis, founder of Allies of Skin. “Just as you would not see instant results after a single personal training session, peptides train your skin to perform better over time. Regular use is key.”

Jen Shane is quick to clarify that not all peptides are created equal. “Different peptides have different molecular weights and delivery systems, which can impact efficacy,” she explains. “It’s hard for an average consumer to know these details without access to the raw material information, so the best thing you can do is look for third-party independent clinical measurements that back up what the peptide claims do. For example, if you are looking at a firming peptide, then the formula should have final formula clinical machine measurements which would look something like “Users experienced a 30% average increase in skin’s firmness after 12 weeks”



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