As a self-proclaimed America’s sweetheart (Julia Roberts isn’t using that title any more, is she?) who moved to the UK nearly 10 years ago, there are a few British traditions and customs that I have adopted, especially around Christmas time. However, there are also a few American ones that I hold on to staunchly: one is the pronunciation of “aluminum”, and another is the importance and beauty of a soft cookie. In both of these easy but delicious bakes to share, I use spice and heat to balance the usual sweetness with which the season can often overload us.
Black pepper soft gingerbread cookies
Prep 5 min
Chill 1 hr
Cook 50 min, plus cooling
Makes 10-12
520g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
8g cocoa powder
8g ground ginger
3g ground cloves
5g ground cinnamon
3g aleppo pepper
4g coarsely ground black pepper
7g table salt
3g bicarbonate of soda
225g soft unsalted butter
175g caster sugar
1 large egg (60g)
77g treacle
77g pomegranate molasses
40g golden syrup
For the icing
120g icing sugar
30g water
Whisk the first nine ingredients in a bowl and set aside. Either in the bowl of a stand mixer or using a handheld mixer, beat the butter for a few minutes until light and creamy. Scrape down the bowl, add the sugar and mix for four minutes more, until properly whipped. Add the egg and mix in well, continuously scraping down the sides of the bowl to ensure everything is well combined. Add the treacle, molasses and golden syrup, and mix again.
Add the dry mix, combining until a dough forms. Shape the dough into a rectangle, then wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for an hour.
Take the dough out of the fridge and let it sit for five to 10 minutes. Lightly dust the dough with flour, then roll it out so it’s roughly a third of an inch/1cm thick. Use cookie cutters to stamp out whatever shapes you fancy – gingerbread people, say, or you could even use a patterned roller. Re-roll any scraps and cut out some more.
Transfer the cookies to a baking tray lined with baking paper, keeping them spaced at least 5cm apart. Bake at 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 for 11-13 minutes, until the edges are firm, and the cookies slightly darken, but still seem a little soft. Leave to sit for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk the icing sugar and water to make a glaze. While the cookies are still warm, brush them with the glaze, then leave to set. The cookies will keep in an airtight container for a week.
Ginger and pumpkin loaf with spiced lemon icing
Prep 5 min
Cook 1 hr 10 min
Makes 1 x 30cm loaf cake, to serve 7-10
425g pumpkin puree
375g soft dark brown sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
275g vegetable oil
250g eggs
350g plain flour
1 tbsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cardamom
½ tsp mixed spice
10g bicarbonate of soda
8g baking powder
10g table salt
For the spiced lemon icing
250g icing sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground turmeric
Juice of 1 lemon
In a medium bowl, whisk the pumpkin puree, brown sugar, vanilla and oil. Add the eggs and mix again until emulsified.
In a second bowl, whisk the flour, spices, bicarb, baking powder and salt. Fold the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, being careful not to over-mix, because that will result in a tougher sponge – the batter doesn’t have to be totally smooth, but you don’t want any clumps of flour. Transfer to a 30cm loaf tin.
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4. Bake the loaf for 50-55 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean; start checking from the 50-minute mark. Leave the loaf to coolcompletely in its tin before turning out.
To make the spiced lemon icing, whisk the icing sugar, spices and just enough lemon juice to make a thick icing. Once the cake is cool, slather on the icing and leave to set. This will keep for five days once iced, or seven days uniced and wrapped.
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Adriann Ramirez is head of pastry at Finks, which has just opened Finks at Clissold House, London N16
