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From chiffon zip-ups to hooded windbreakers, designers made a case for an elevated yet easy kind of sportswear on the catwalks. At LABRUM, Foday Dumbuya matched pulled-up compression-style socks (peacock and fuchsia or printed with his cowrie-shell design) with similarly exuberant sneakers by adidas x LABRUM. Meanwhile, making his debut at Fashion East, Jacek Gleba’s colour-blocked sportswear — think leggings with a teardrop cut-out positioned over the knee and drape-neck leotards — was informed by the ‘“balletic body’, a reference to the designer’s own history of dance. Jackets, meanwhile, were uniformly hooded but haute (at Ahluwalia, they were styled with matching bubble skirts; at Talia Byre, with high-waisted black trousers held up with a studded belt).

