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Maximum protein, minimal carbs: why gym bros are flocking to Australia’s charcoal chicken shops | Australian food and drink

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Popularised in Australia by Balkan and Lebanese immigrants, charcoal chicken has long been part of our comfort-food canon. But recently, the humble chicken shop has had a renaissance – driven by fresh takes on the classics, the expansion of longstanding chains and a surge of protein-conscious gym goers.

In June, charcoal chicken chain El Jannah, which has more than 50 stores, launched a page on its website dedicated to protein and macros – complete with recommendations for the best post-leg day order – a clear nod to the fitness crowd.

‘I think the allure of charcoal chicken is that it’s bloody delicious, and still a healthy alternative,’ says Melbourne powerlifting coach Rob Franklin. Photograph: Eugene Hyland/The Guardian

In Wagga Wagga, Habibi Chicken has a “Gym Bro” pack – a half or quarter chicken, tabbouleh, pita and toum, no chips. Co-owner Mariam Rehman says it’s a top seller, designed to maximise protein and reduce carbs. “I wouldn’t say we thought hard about it,” she says. “We were looking at who comes into our store the most and noticing a lot of gym goers.”

The combo has become a hit, sparking partnerships with local gyms Anytime Fitness and Snap Fitness. While the name of the lunch pack implies a certain type, Rehman says “gym bro” spans genders. “There are quite a lot of females now hitting their protein goals – even though it’s bloody hard.”

Sarah Williams aims for around 120g of protein a day. Photograph: Trent Callaghan Photography/Sarah Williams

Sarah Williams is one of those women. She does Olympic weightlifting and aims for around 120g of protein a day – the equivalent of 20 eggs, eight to 10 protein bars, or two to three chicken breasts.

“Chicken’s one of the best options if you’re looking to hit your protein,” says Williams. “I would not rely on shakes or bars.” She meal preps when she can, but turns to her local charcoal chicken shops – Habibi or Original Flame Grilled Chicken – when she’s in a pinch. “If I needed a quick option, that’s definitely what I’d go to.”

Melbourne powerlifting coach and nutritionist Rob Franklin says at one point, he was eating six meals a day – half of them chicken. “For bodybuilders, chicken breast, brown rice and broccoli is the go-to meal,” he says. “I think the allure of charcoal chicken is that it’s bloody delicious, and still a healthy alternative.”

At Pony Club, a queer-owned gym where Franklin works, it’s also the backbone of social meetups. “Every month or so we go out for a meal and it’s always kebabs or grilled chicken,” he says. Pony Club founder Ella Mason calls the group “avid El Jannah fans”.

Ibby Moubadder, co-founder of Sydney’s Henrietta Charcoal Chicken, has also seen more health-conscious customers looking for lean protein options. The Sydney restaurateur is something of a gym bro himself, training seven mornings a week. “Lunch is chicken breast,” he says. “Dinner’s a salad with salmon or more chicken. In between, I have chicken stock.”

Franklin is part of an unofficial ‘avid El Jannah fans’ group at Melbourne’s Pony Club. Photograph: Eugene Hyland/The Guardian

At Henrietta’s new Bondi store, he sees some customers order just charcoal chicken. “No bread, nothing,” says Moubadder. “You get people taking the sweet potato off because they’re keto.”

El Jannah’s culinary development manager, Cindy Flores, says protein-focused people like the customisation they offer too. “You can add as much protein to your meal as you want,” she says – even hummus instead of toum, for an extra bump. And it’s not boring: “It feels like you’re having a good meal, not just brown rice and tuna.”

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Ibby Moubadder, co-founder of Henrietta, sees some customers order just charcoal chicken. Photograph: Shayben Moussa

Chargrill Charlie’s is also leaning in. Its first Queensland store, run by NRL player Jack Gosiewski and partner Avalon McRae, caters to Gosiewski’s teammates and fitness-minded locals alike. “There are lots of run clubs close by, and the river where everyone’s doing their hot girl walks,” McRae says. Customers often arrive straight from training, sometimes with specific requests to meet their macros. “I’ve had a few people ask me to weigh their chicken, which we’re happy to do.”

But how much charcoal chicken is too much? According to dietitian Zoe Brain, the chief executive of Brain of a Dietitian in Sydney, “you can usually only absorb and utilise 30g of protein for muscle protein synthesis at a time”. The rest isn’t harmful, but it’s not doing much either. “Your body will just excrete it.”

Chicken, she says, is a lean, efficient protein source – higher in protein per calorie than most meats. But for anyone eating charcoal chook regularly, Brain has a few pointers. First, skip the skin, which is high in saturated fat. “They often grill the chicken in oils or leave the skin on, so opt for chicken without skin, if possible,” says Brain.

Second, don’t overlook carbs. If you’re burning lots of energy in high-intensity training, she says, you need to replenish it. “Your brain, skin and kidneys rely on carbohydrates as their primary fuel source,” she says.

Henrietta Charcoal Chicken has stores in Bondi, Surry Hills and Parramatta. Photograph: Shayben Moussa

Whether it’s chicken and chips or a brown rice bowl, more gym goers are building chook into their diets as something that balances convenience, taste and nutrition goals. “I don’t want to go home and cook dinner [after the gym],” Franklin says. But “if I’m smashing KFC every night, that’s not gonna be good for my client base. I want something easy that’s gonna tick the boxes as a nutritionist.” To him, charcoal chicken is the sweet spot.



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Maximum protein, minimal carbs: why gym bros are flocking to Australia’s charcoal chicken shops | Australian food and drink

Popularised in Australia by Balkan and Lebanese immigrants, charcoal chicken has long been part of our comfort-food canon. But recently, the humble chicken...