Monday, December 1, 2025

Smoked trout gratin and mulled wine roasties: Poppy O’Toole’s recipes for potatoes | Food

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A deliciously decadent gratin with layers of potato, smoked trout and cavolo nero all smothered in herb-infused cream and finished with a grating of gruyere. It’s the ultimate cosy potato main course. Then, for a flavourful twist on everyone’s favourite part of a roast dinner, crisp roast potatoes tossed in a lightly spiced and herby butter emulsion.

Smoked trout and cavolo nero potato gratin (pictured top)

Prep 15 min
Cook 2 hr 15 min
Serves 4

600ml double cream
3
garlic cloves, peeled and bashed
2 sprigs rosemary
3 sprigs thyme
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
Nutmeg
Salt and white pepper
25g butter
1 brown onion
, peeled and thinly sliced
200g cavolo nero, stem removed, leaves roughly sliced
750g maris piper potatoes, peeled and cut into 3mm-thick slices
200g thinly sliced cold smoked trout
3 sprigs dill
, finely chopped
150g finely grated gruyere

Pour the cream into a saucepan and add the garlic, rosemary, thyme, lemon zest and a grating of nutmeg. Season well with salt and white pepper, then set over a medium-low heat and bring to a gentle bubble for about 10 minutes, to infuse and thicken. Scoop out and discard the garlic and herbs.

Melt the butter in a frying pan on a medium heat, chuck in the sliced onions and fry for four to five minutes, until softened. Add the cavolo nero, season generously and saute until the cabbage wilts. Take off the heat.

Arrange the thinly sliced potatoes in a layer in the bottom of a deep 9cm x 12cm baking dish. Top with a layer of the onions and cavolo nero, then pour over some of the cream mixture and season. Top with slices of smoked trout and a sprinkling of chopped dill, then sprinkle over some cheese. Repeat the layering process until you reach the top of the baking dish, making sure the final layer is potatoes topped with cream and cheese.

Bake at 170C (150C fan)/340F/gas 3½ for an hour and 45 minutes, or until soft all the way through.

White mulled wine roast potatoes

Poppy O’Toole’s white mulled wine roast potatoes.

Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 10 min, plus cooling
Serves 4

6 maris piper potatoes, peeled and quartered
1 vegetable stock cube
Flaky salt and black pepper

4 tbsp vegetable oil
200ml white wine
½
shallot, peeled and finely diced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
A grating of nutmeg
2 whole cloves
Zest of 1 lemon, peeled off in strips
50g salted butter
2 sprigs rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped
2 sprigs thyme, leaves picked and finely chopped
3 sprigs sage, leaves picked and finely chopped

Put the quartered potatoes in a pan of cold water, add the stock cube and season with salt. Bring to a boil, then cook the potatoes for seven to 10 minutes, until they fall off the tip of a sharp knife. Drain, then lay a tea towel over the colander and leave to steam-dry for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6.

Pour the oil into a baking tray and put it in the oven to get really hot. Once the potatoes are steamed, carefully add them to the hot oil and turn with a pair of tongs, so they’re completely coated in oil. Roast for 30 minutes, then give them a shake and return to the oven for another 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, put a large pan on a high heat, add the white wine, then add the shallots, garlic, nutmeg, cloves and lemon zest, and cook until the liquid has reduced by half. Whisk in the butter and herbs, then fish out and discard the cloves and lemon zest. By this point, the potatoes should be ready.

Toss the potatoes in the wine reduction, season and serve immediately.

  • Poppy O’Toole’s latest book, Poppy Cooks: The Actually Delicious One Pot Cookbook, is published by Bloomsbury Publishing at £22. To order a copy for £19.80, visit guardianbookshop.com



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